Tuesday was my last full day in Peru before I flew home on Wednesday. I went from Cusco to my doorstep in Bethesda in less than 24 hours, which was disorienting, to say the least.
On Monday we met up with John Danello and Rebecca Crabb, friends of ours from UNC and fellow Morehead scholars. They had been traveling in Peru this summer as well, teaching in rural areas as well as in Lima. It was fun to swap tips on avoiding sticky hands and surviving P.E.
We went to dinner Monday night at Ciccolino, a seriously nice restaurant in Cusco. I had a delicious green(!) salad and something called oso buscu. It tasted like a very tender steak, but slightly gamey. It also had a very large bone in the middle. I’m totally unsure what kind of animal I ate, but it was tasty.
On Tuesday morning we slept late in our lovely hotel. It was built by the Spanish conquistadors in the 16th century and had absolutely gorgeous carved wooden doors, hot showers, and English t.v. For $33 a night. What more could you possibly ask for? I love the exchange rate.
We’d taken several day trips to Cusco while we were living in Ollantaytambo, and it was always during the middle of the day, when it’s sunny and in the high 70’s. But sleeping in Cusco was another matter altogether. The city sits at 11,000 feet, and sleeping at that altitude was difficult. I was awake for several hours during the night trying to catch my breath, and I could hear my roomates periodically wake up gasping for air. Altitude does weird things to people.
But on Tuesday, after enjoying the hotel breakfast of the best scrambled eggs I’d had in Peru, we took John and Rebecca to the San Pedro market to buy our favorite wheel of Andino cheese, get some Choco Soda cookies, and see the requisite dead pigs before hailing a taxi and heading to Sacsayhuamán.
These ruins, which are best pronounced by saying “sexy woman” really fast with Spanish accent, sit several hundred feet above Cusco, halfway up the mountains which form a bowl around the city below. For those of you who took my recommendation and read the White Rock, you’ll know that Sacsayhuamán was the site of a big battle between the Spanish and the Incas, where the outnumbered Spanish somehow defeated the Incas in the terrifying fortress.
It’s easy to see why it would have been terrifying. After convincing the woman at the gate to let us in for only half the exorbitant rate, we entered the site to find ourselves standing on a huge flat plain of grass, with stones walls on either side.
To the left, toward the mountains, were huge slabs of stone that looked like whipped egg whites made by giants. And on the right was a huge retaining wall of sorts, holding back dirt that creates and ledge overlooking the city.
The wall was particularly interesting, not only because of its immense size, but because it sits in a jigsaw pattern. If the Spanish had tried to climb any of the walls, they would have been easily flanked by the Incas standing above. Wikipedia has a cool panorama of the wall that you can clink on here.
We ate our cheese and bread in a prohibited section of the ruins, trying to look nonchalant. Then we rejoined the law-abiding tourists at the lookout, where we took silly pictures of ourselves. Or made Jarrard take them of us.
When deciding what to do next, John suggested that we “hike to Jesus.” This was not some veiled religious metaphor. There actually is a huge Jesus statue perched on top of a mountain abutting Cusco. But after laughing at his suggestion, we vetoed the idea, and instead went to McDonalds for McFlurries. Because ice cream should always win out.
The McDonalds was awesome. The prices were about the same as they would have been in the States, and my compadres said the McFlurries were nothing more than ice cream with stuff on top. But the decor was fabulous and there was free WiFi, as the boys with their iPhones discovered. There was even cheesy American music and the strong smell of things being fried in vats of oil. We were very pleased.
To continue in the vein of behaving in an American manner, we then went shopping. Shopping for real clothes isn’t easy, as teens and young adults favor the kind of clothes you see on MTV but would never actually wear. Or at least I wouldn’t. I’m not so fond of jeans with “Angel” written on the rear end or hoodies embroidered with skulls. But maybe that’s just me. Or maybe I felt I was whistled at enough in Peru already.
But in Cusco we discovered a store that sold reasonably normal clothing for dirt-cheap prices. Sounds good, right? It was even better. The store was called TopiTop, which when said out loud, provides endless entertainment.
After spending about $40 on an entirely new wardrobe, we watched English television in our hotel and laughed at the Spanish subtitles, before dinner at Jack’s. Jack’s is a delightful gringo establishment where one can order a “big juicy hamburger” or a veggie burger with “lashings of guacamole.” These were not written by someone who speaks poor English. This was someone excited about food.
Then suddenly, time started to fly. I was packing and checking email and trying to figure out if I’d miss my connecting flights the following day before I realized that I would be leaving Kelsey and Jarrard for good, or at least until school started.
We’d spent eight weeks together and it was weird to think that I wouldn’t again watch Kelsey spill jelly all over the breakfast table or ask Jarrard to take a picture of something. The three of us got really close this summer, and I honestly believe that we accomplished more as a team than any of us could have done on our own. Future travelers, take note. Two scholars are better than one. Three is perfect. And five is a party.
-
-
The usual. Dead piggies go to market.
-
-
John in front of Peruvian flags.
-
-
An archway in Cusco.
-
-
The gang, walking through a smaller Plaza in Cusco.
-
-
The courtyard in our hotel.
-
-
The frog in the fountain. The Spanish had a sense of humor.
-
-
Up to the ruins.
-
-
Kelsey on the ruins.
-
-
Cheese!
-
-
Looking out over the city.
-
-
The girls at the lookout.
-
-
The Incas never figured out the arch, making doorways narrow at the top.
-
-
Kelsey kissing the rocks. She’s tall. You can get a sense of the scale.
-
-
The main grassy area below the wall.
-
-
Clearly the reconstructed part at the top wasn’t done too well.
-
-
Let’s hike to Jesus!
-
-
The wall from the other side.
-
-
Curvy rocks. Do not know if the Incas made them this way, but they’re cool. So probably.
-
-
More rocks.
-
-
The ruins, with the city behind.
-
-
The Peruvian kids slid down the smooth rocks like they were jungle gyms.
-
-
For some reason, they insisted on doing handstands. Because standing on your feet isn’t good enough?
-
-
Independence day in Cusco.
-
-
McDonalds!
-
-
The decor in McDonalds was lovely. There were tribal masks and pottery on the walls.
-
-
Rebecca and Kelsey with their McFlurries.
-
-
The tables in McDonalds had a drawing of the Inca Trail.
-
-
The Plaza de Armas looking pretty.
-
-
The sky over the city.
-
-
One of the smaller plazas, near our hotel.
-
-
A street near TopiTop. Peruvians love that shade of blue. I do too.
-
-
An abby that houses nuns.
-
-
TopiTop. The coolest name of anything, ever.
-
-
Cathedrals. There are many.
-
-
There was a dog with a steel muzzle. They went to pet it. End of story.